Monday, September 7, 2015

Buena Vista – Colorado’s Secret Gem


With the snowcapped summits of the Collegiate Peaks and Sawatch Range towering above and the Arkansas River raging below, Buena Vista lives up to its name, which translates to “beautiful view” in Spanish. BV, as locals know it, has long drawn travelers seeking world-class white-water rafting and easy access to fourteeners (the county holds a record 12 such peaks). But a new multiuse development is improving the one-stoplight town’s dining and shopping scenes, setting up the former railroad hub to attract more visitors—from Colorado and beyond—than ever before.


Having grabbed a beef brisket sandwich to go at Al’s Pits Barbecue in Grant for lunch, you should arrive in Buena Vista in plenty of time to pick up your wheels at ATV/Jeep Mountain Adventure Rentals for a half-day of off-roading fun (starting at $125). You’ll follow owner Randy Wagner in your car to the trailhead in the Fourmile Travel Management Area, a 100,000-acre spread of Forest Service/BLM land a few miles back up U.S. 285. He’ll show you how the machine works, hand you a marked-up map, and send you on your way. As you zoom (or creep) over rocks and thick roots and through muddy puddles for the next three hours—don’t worry, the trails are well-marked— make sure to stop and look around. The Collegiate Peaks form a striking backdrop to the area’s softly rolling hills.

Back in town, you’ll luxuriate under the Surf Chateau’s sublime raindrop showerheads long after the trail grime has disappeared down the drain. Located on the banks of the Arkansas River, this year-old boutique hotel (rooms start at $149 per night) has other desirable touches—locally sourced stone, high-thread-count linens, twinkle lights in the courtyard, and riverside patios—that make it feel like a true getaway. That the 20-room inn is situated in the newly developed South Main neighborhood is no accident. Siblings and BV locals Jed Selby and Katie Selby Urban bought the land more than a decade ago. They donated the three-acre river corridor to the town for public access and are in the process of building an environmentally friendly, walkable neighborhood along its banks.

From the Chateau, amble past colorful, Southern inspired townhomes to the corner of South Main Street and River Park Road, where you can explore locally made wares—like Golden artist Jesse Crock’s bright landscape paintings and handmade pieces by Good Things Candle Company—at Sundance and Friends while waiting for a table to open at Eddyline Restaurant at South Main nearby. The sister business of a local brewery by the same name—which sits on the other end of town and has live music on the weekends during the summer—serves delicious pecan-wood-fired pizzas and cold pints. The Jolly Roger Black Lager goes down particularly well on a crisp fall afternoon. If the weather’s not too chilly, visit the recently opened Midland Stop cafe for a gelato nightcap.


Hiking a fourteener is an obvious choice for the day’s activity—the Decalibron Loop near Fairplay allows you to summit three peaks (plus a fourth if you’re into trespassing on private land) in quick succession—but if you’re visiting in the warmer months, you’ll want to play in the mighty Arkansas. River Runners is one of the oldest rafting companies in the area, offering myriad outings through early September. If the water is running high, opt for the splashy, half-day Browns Canyon National Monument trip ($60 per person), a thrilling ride through Class III and IV rapids. Once you’ve dried off, grab a picnic table by the river and refuel with an order of mahi mahi tacos and a margarita from the on-site cantina.

More small town destination and tips at vacation-now.com

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